JOURNEY TO NOSTOS

National Garden & Zappeion Loop Itinerary

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Total Time: 2–3 hours
Difficulty: Easy (paved paths, flat terrain)
Start & End: Syntagma Square

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Route & Timing

1. Syntagma Square → Hellenic Parliament (Changing of the Guard) — ≈10 minutes
Begin at Syntagma and take a few minutes to watch the Evzones at the Parliament. It’s a short, ceremonial “opening note” before you slip into green shade.

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2. National Garden Stroll — ≈45 minutes
Enter the National Garden and slow your pace immediately. Follow the shaded paths past fountains, palms, and dense plantings—this is Athens exhaling. Keep it unstructured: turn where the light looks softer, pause where the sound of water appears.

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3. Zappeion Hall & Forecourt — ≈20 minutes
Walk out toward the Zappeion and spend time with the neoclassical façade and the surrounding formal gardens. This section is architectural and open—more sky, more symmetry, more space.

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4. Adjacent Park Loop — ≈30 minutes
Continue through the park area around Zappeion at an easy pace. It’s a gentle extension of the garden mood: benches, long paths, and the feeling of being “near the centre” without being swallowed by it.

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5. Coffee & Lunch near Syntagma — ≈75 minutes total
Finish with a relaxed coffee break (≈30 minutes), then an unhurried lunch nearby (≈45 minutes). Keep the ending close to Syntagma so your exit is effortless.

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Practical Tips

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Coffee & Lunch Suggestions

Coffee

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Lunch

• • The National Garden is stroller- and wheelchair-accessible.

  • In summer, bring a hat and water even for short walks.

  • Public restrooms are available inside the garden and near Syntagma.

  • Check Parliament guard-changing times if you want the best viewing.

  • Ergon House (Syntagma) — Modern Greek deli + café atmosphere.

  • Fresh Café (Syntagma) — Coffee and light bites, simple and convenient.

  • O Kostas (Syntagma) — Famous for souvlaki and straightforward Greek fare.

  • To Kafeneio (Plaka) — Traditional dishes in a cozy, old-Athens setting.

 

National Garden & Zappeion Loop Narrative

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Crossing Syntagma Square on a sunny day is the beginning of an exciting experience, as your senses will absorb the sights, sounds, and smells that welcome you to this city. The sound of diesel engines from buses moving along the curb, the sound of all the people speaking all at once, the sound of so many people rushing to work, as well as taking their time because of the protests, the smell of roasted corn in the wind—all of this hits you all at once.

From the centre of Syntagma Square, the rest of the city of Athens is like a book unfolding with all of its history. The city's history is represented through the buildings, which contain both ancient and modern architecture.

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The first thing that you experience when you arrive in Syntagma Square is the absolute centre of Athens, the building of the Parliament (formally known as the Hellenic Parliament or Hellenic Republic). The Parliament building served as the Royal Palace for King Otto and his wife Queen Amalia, and it has served as a location of conflict and peace for many countries and people throughout the years. The centre of the Square is where memory and hope come together. According to the poet Giorgos Seferis, "Syntagma Square is the navel of Athens" and serves as a reminder that the past and future can exist together beneath the symbol of the Greek flag.

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If you are in Syntagma Square, you should plan on taking the time to watch the changing of the guard ceremony in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. To avoid crowds during this time, I suggest arriving at Syntagma Square at least ten minutes before the hour. The ceremony occurs every hour (every hour) on the hour. The most elaborate, largest, and longest ceremony occurs each Sunday at 11:00 a.m. The guards who perform the changing of the guard (become guard), known as the Evzones (pronounced: Evzonas), wear traditional soldier uniforms, which consist of a white fustanella (kilt), waistcoat with gold embroidery, and red tsarouchi (shoe). Each fustanella worn by the Evzones has 400 pleats, which symbolically represent the 400 years of Ottoman Rule. The Evzones would describe themselves as "a living monument to the struggles of the Greek people," and they wear 400 pleats with pride and honour of those who have sacrificed for the freedom of Greece. The slow ritual of everyone present in synchrony at the tomb (for both reverence and also for the ceremonial aspect) is consistent with Yannis Ritsos' comment, "They shall keep watch; so that we may have rest for your feet for a time."

Entering through the iron gate into the National Garden - truly a living tapestry that was initiated by Queen Amalia in 1839, where she took such personal interest that she frequently spent time in the garden with a notebook, attempting to record when trees came to her from around the world. The gardens were designed with English, French and Italian influences (however, they are quintessentially Athenian), and while the rare species of trees still exist and the shaded paths remain through which people travel daily, they are not merely plants but rather they tell the story of how people in Athens have contributed to Amalia's vision of how they create a common refuge for future generations of Athenians.

Strolling down the shaded walks under the enormous palms imported from California while in turn they were planted in Amalia's time and around the edges of Central Park, will prompt you to stop, breathe in deeply the light fragrant scent of the resinous sap, and consider on a warm summer day, whether you want to enjoy the shade under one of the many ancient trees which continue to be enjoyed by those who read the HOMERIC EPISTLES. In addition to the palms, the garden has some beautiful, umbrella-shaped pine trees, which provide not only dappled sunlight on the surrounding lawn, but also, because of the high moisture level of the soil, the trees provide a very unique fragrance of resinous and earthy-smelling substances. The cypress tree has also been a symbol of mourning or eternity in Greek poetry, and as such, cypress trees are located in many cemetery plots, as well as in significant locations for Greek Orthodox churches throughout Greece and other countries. Melissanthi writes about an oasis-like setting where “the sun filters through green,” and “the silence has a musical quality.” Pink and white oleanders line the pathways, alongside fragrant lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and laurel (Laurus nobilis) plants that border the walkways. Orange trees (Citrus sinensis) and bitter oranges (Nerantzi) produce sweet-smelling blossoms in spring and ripen their fruit in clusters of gold through winter.

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The garden is home to a number of notable plants–among them are an ancient bamboo grove, one of the oldest in Europe; a rare Chinese windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei) and a jacaranda tree, which turns the garden a lovely lilac blue colour during the end of spring.

A small zoo within the garden houses peacocks, goats and local turtles. You can find songbirds among the branches, including nightingales, swallows and an abundant population of blackbirds whose songs have inspired poets throughout Greek history. If you have time, you may want to stop for a moment near the bamboo grove and watch the leaves gently rustle and listen for the sounds of warblers and insects moving about–an oasis inside of an oasis for the naturalist who is curious about everything.

As you walk through the garden, you will find remnants of ancient times discovered while developing the garden, such as pieces of Roman mosaics, marble columns and inscribed stones, silent witnesses of the history of the city that has developed layer upon layer over many years. Alexandros Papadiamantis, a well-known novelist from Athens, said, “When you walk through the garden, you will hear the stories of the stones, the roots and the wings.” You will continue towards the Zappeion by following the main path, which is located to the left of the central fountain. Walking a short five minutes will bring you from the Parliament building to the Zappeion; along the way, there are benches with dappled sunlight streaming across them. The Zappeion has beautiful marble columns solitary up on a hill in front of you as you walk toward it. The Zappeion was a place built for Evangelos Zappas, the man who had inspired its creation, to honour him for reviving the Olympic Games and organising the ceremonial opening of the new Greece through civic celebrations and recognition of the accomplishments of Greece’s citizens. The gardens surrounding the Zappeion are designed similarly to Theocritus’ pastoral scenery with myrtles (Myrtus communis), laurels, agapanthus flowers, and cypress trees.

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When you step inside the Zappeion, you will be immediately greeted by the circular atrium topped with the divine muses and statues of various Olympian deities; this building has hosted Olympic fencing displays that once echoed with the sounds of swords clanging against one another (during Olympics) as well as the quiet anticipation amongst onlookers until their favorite athlete would finally demonstrate their skill through an amazing performance. While the Olympic Fencing was occurring inside, outside on (whatever) square, you would see a young Athenian female athlete clutching her very first medal, her face displaying shock and pride at the accomplishment of her goal. In addition, this same hall was the site of several other important events including (not limited to) the signing of Greece’s membership agreement with the European Community; outside the square (whatever) hundreds of Athenian citizens congregated to hear the radio broadcast between the European Community and Athenian residents; while some citizens cried tears of joy, others held hands with their family members and expressed their enthusiasm over the new order of government. A cultural venue today, the Zappeion is still frequently used to host public art events in its gallery space or seasonal classical music concerts under the stars along the column-lined walkway. Here, people will often gather on the stairs, waiting to share music with family and friends. Each spring, the Athens Art Fair (held in Zappeion) provides an opportunity for visitors to see the work of many contemporary artists, both from Greece and abroad. Make sure to check the current schedule of events when you arrive, as there are often rotating exhibits, book festivals, and workshops available for those wanting to see and experience art in Athens up close and personal. As historian Konstantinos Paparrigopoulos stated, "It is a building where the past and future shake hands."

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Take a stroll through the adjacent park, where eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus) fills the air with a fragrant aroma, and the sounds of running water from hidden fountains dull the edge of the city's noise. This park is also where Giorgos Seferis used to spend time writing, once remarking, "Even at the heart of the city, there is still the peace of a distant island." Before continuing on to the busy streets of Athens, take a moment to stop and listen to the soft rustling of the eucalyptus trees as they mix with the distant sound of traffic. Hold on to that scent and sound as you leave the park.

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As you walk back toward Syntagma, you will feel the peacefulness of the gardens with you. Consider stopping for souvlaki at either Ergon House or Fresh Café, or at O Kostas. As you enjoy your meal, the flavours and smells of Greece will fill your memory, with each bite being a reminder of the rosemary and laurel growing along the shaded pathways, and the taste of salt mixed with citrus will remind you of the fragrant air you have been experiencing in the park. The late afternoon light will remind you of the poet Odysseas Elytis’ quote, “All the centuries that have passed in Athens have also passed under the same trees; if you listen closely, you can hear their leaves telling the story of Athens.” Your food will remain with you as a gentle reminder that the food, fragrance and memories of Athens will weave themselves together and follow you home.